A World They Made: The Uru People Live on Floating Islands Built of Floating Reeds

The Uros islands and their remarkable floating communities on Lake Titicaca offer a fascinating glimpse into an ingenious way of life that has endured for centuries.

In Lake Titicaca in the Andes Mountains at an elevation of nearly 3,810 meters (12,500 feet) above sea level, there are man-made islands of reed that are home to the Uru people, an indigenous group of Bolivia and Peru that has adapted to life on the water in truly extraordinary ways. They live on a cluster of around 120 self-built floating islands in Lake Titicaca near Puno, which is still expanding.

The origins of the Uru people stretch back over 3,500 years to the ancient Pukara culture, making them one of the oldest indigenous groups in the Americas. According to legend, the Uru considered themselves the original owners of the lake and water, with black blood that made them impervious to the cold. They called themselves “Lupihaques” or “sons of the Sun.”

While much of their early history remains shrouded in mystery, it’s believed the Uru began constructing their floating islands as a defensive measure against threats from expanding empires like the Inca. By creating mobile settlements that could be moved to different parts of the vast Lake Titicaca, the peaceful Uru were able to evade conflict and maintain their unique way of life.

At the heart of Uru culture and the Uros islands themselves is the totora reed, a versatile aquatic plant that grows abundantly in the shallows of Lake Titicaca. The Uru harvest these reeds and use them ingeniously for nearly every aspect of their lives – from the construction of the islands and homes to boats, crafts, fuel and even food.

The islands are created by stacking layers upon layers of totora roots and reeds to form a thick, buoyant platform typically measuring about 1-2 meters (3-6 feet) thick. New layers of cut reeds must be continually added to the surface, sometimes as often as every two weeks during the rainy season when the bottom layers decay more rapidly.

Building and maintaining these extraordinary floating structures is an ongoing communal effort. Large blocks of totora roots that naturally float to the surface are gathered and tied together to form the island base. Dried reeds are then piled on top in alternating directions.

To prevent the islands from drifting away, they are anchored to the lake bottom using eucalyptus poles and rope. A typical island may be home to between two to ten families and last for about 25 years before needing to be entirely rebuilt.

The Uru have managed to create a surprisingly comfortable existence on their reed islands. Traditional homes are constructed primarily of totora, though some now feature metal roofs for added protection from the elements. The ground is cushioned with an extra thick layer of dry reeds to prevent humidity and rheumatism.

For sanitation, tiny outhouse islands are stationed nearby the main living areas. Many islands now have solar panels to power lights, televisions and other modern conveniences. There’s even a local FM radio station that broadcasts music and community information.

The totora reed is truly the lifeblood of Uru society, used not only for construction but as an important food source and medicine. The tender white base of the reed, called chullo, is eaten for its iodine content to prevent goiters.

When experiencing pain, Uru people may wrap reeds around the affected body part. The white part of the reed can also be used to stay cool on hot days or even to ease hangovers. A tea made from totora flowers is another staple of the Uru diet.

Fishing remains an important part of life on the Uros islands, with trout, catfish and other species providing vital sustenance. The Uru have also cleverly domesticated local waterbirds to assist with fishing and egg production. Cormorants are tethered with wool tied to their feet to help catch fish, while ibis are raised for both eggs and meat. Some islands even feature interior ponds used for small-scale fish farming. To control the rat population, many families keep cats as pets.

While the Uru have worked hard to maintain their traditional culture, their way of life has undergone significant changes in recent decades. A devastating storm in 1986 forced many Uru to rebuild their islands closer to the mainland shore near Puno, Peru. This brought them into much closer contact with modern society and opened up new economic opportunities through tourism.

Today, many Uru supplement their income by offering boat tours and selling handicrafts to the curious visitors who come to experience their unique floating world.

The Uru population has declined significantly over the years, with many young people leaving the islands to pursue education and job opportunities on the mainland. It’s estimated that only about 1,200 Uru still live on the Uros islands, inhabiting an archipelago of 60-70 artificial islands. This is a far cry from their former domain that once spanned much of Lake Titicaca. The Uru language has also been lost, replaced first by Aymara through trade interactions and more recently by Spanish.

Despite these challenges, the remaining Uru work hard to preserve their cultural heritage while adapting to the realities of the modern world. Children attend elementary school on specially designated school islands, while older students travel to the mainland for secondary and university education. Many islands now have shared amenities like solar panels, and there are even some motorized boats alongside the traditional reed watercraft.

For travelers, a visit to the Uros islands offers a truly unique cultural experience. Day tours from Puno allow visitors to step onto these remarkable reed platforms, learn about traditional construction techniques, try on colorful local clothing, and perhaps take a ride in a reed boat. For those seeking a more immersive experience, some tours offer overnight homestays with local families, providing deeper insight into daily life on these fascinating floating islands.

Sources: 1, 2, 3