Life in Whittier, the Alaskan Town With 90% of the Population Living in a Single Apartment Building

Amidst the breathtaking scenery of Alaska’s Prince William Sound, the small city of Whittier offers a unique living experience unlike any other in the United States. With a population of just 272 residents as of 2020, this remote Alaskan outpost is renowned for its distinctive living arrangement, where nearly 90% of the inhabitants reside in a single 14-story apartment building known as the Begich Towers.

Originally built as an army barracks in 1957, the Begich Towers now serves as a self-contained community, housing not only residents but also essential services such as a post office, general store, police station, laundromat, health clinic, and even the mayor’s office. This all-in-one living arrangement provides a level of convenience that is hard to match, especially considering Whittier’s isolated location and harsh winter weather.

The town’s history dates back to World War II when it was developed as a military harbor and logistics base for the US Army. The strategic location of Whittier, with its deep-water port and natural protection from the surrounding mountains, made it an ideal choice for military operations. After the war, the military planned to expand the complex, but only two major buildings were completed: the Begich Towers and the now-abandoned Buckner Building.

Access to Whittier is limited, with the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel serving as the only land route connecting the town to Anchorage and the rest of Alaska. This 2.5-mile-long tunnel, shared by cars and trains, adds to the town’s unique character and isolation.

Life in Whittier is shaped by its environment and history. The surrounding fjords and mountains offer ample opportunities for outdoor activities such as hiking, fishing, kayaking, and wildlife viewing. However, the harsh winter weather, with heavy snowfall and long periods of darkness, can be challenging for residents.

This video gives an idea of what it’s like to live there.

To gain a deeper understanding of life in this extraordinary town, we turn to the experiences of former resident Harold P., who lived in Whittier from 1974 to 1986. His candid recollections, shared in an “Ask me anything” forum thread, provide valuable insights into the realities of growing up in such an isolated and close-knit community.

When asked about the purpose of the town, Harold explains, “Whittier survives as a town today as a port, and on top of that Army infrastructure.” He goes on to describe the limited job opportunities, mainly centered around the port, railroad, and tank farm, with fishing and tourism providing additional seasonal employment.

Life in such a small community can be both intimate and limiting. Harold reflects on his experience: “Imagine having 0-4 other kids in your grade. Those are all of your friends. Pick your best friend and your girlfriend from that pool.” This limited social circle was compounded by the harsh weather conditions. “The weather was shit. Summer was SHORT and muddy. Winter was long and DARK,” he recalls.

The isolation of Whittier presented unique challenges, especially before the construction of the road tunnel. Harold remembers, “When I was there you had to drive your car up onto a railroad flatcar (and pay a steep ticket price) to get out. Anchorage is only 55 miles away, but really it’s two mountains away.” This limited access had a significant impact on daily life, including healthcare. In medical emergencies, patients would be transported to Anchorage using an old Army ambulance equipped with deployable train wheels.

Despite the challenges, Whittier managed to provide some entertainment options for its residents. Harold fondly remembers the arcade at the Anchor Inn, which featured popular games like Ms. PacMan, Defender, and Space Invaders. He also recalls collecting railroad spikes, flattening pennies on the train tracks, and searching for glass floats lost from Japanese fishing nets.

The unique living arrangement in Begich Towers created an environment where privacy was at a premium. “Absolutely everyone is absolutely all up in your business all the time,” Harold notes. This close-quarters living also presented challenges for law enforcement, as Alaska’s constitutional right to privacy made it difficult for police to address issues like marijuana use within the building.

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Despite the hardships, Whittier continues to attract residents and visitors alike. Some are drawn to its natural beauty and the promise of a quieter life away from the hustle and bustle of larger cities. As Harold puts it, “One man’s backwater mudpuddle is another man’s relaxing natural paradise.”

Life in Whittier is not for everyone, and Harold himself admits, “I hated it. Other people liked it.” Indeed, the town’s unique character and resilient community spirit continue to fascinate some outsiders and provide a home for those who appreciate its distinctive charm.

Today, Whittier faces new challenges and opportunities. The opening of the road tunnel in 2000 has increased accessibility, potentially changing the town’s dynamics. As the world becomes more connected, it will be interesting to see how this remote Alaskan outpost adapts while maintaining its unique identity as “the town under one roof.”

Sources: 1, 2, 3, 4