Treacherous Eye of the Dragon: Visiting Incredible Antelope Canyon in Arizona Requires a Guide for Good Reasons

The mesmerizing depths of Antelope Canyon in Arizona unveil a world of breathtaking beauty and inherent risks lurking within its narrow passages.

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Eye of the Dragon, Antelope Canyon, Arizona. Photo: Embarque

Looking for a unique and awe-inspiring destination in Arizona? Definitely consider visiting Antelope Canyon! Located on Navajo land near the city of Page, this slot canyon is one of the most photographed places in the world, which is by no means surprising. Its amazing sandstone walls have been sculpted by water and wind over millions of years, creating stunning shapes and colors that change with the light.

Antelope Canyon was formed through the erosion of Navajo Sandstone (a geological formation characterized by its cross-bedded, red to pinkish-orange sandstone layers spread across southern Nevada, northern Arizona, northwest Colorado, and Utah), primarily by flash flooding and other atmospheric processes. During the monsoon season, rainwater gathers in the basin above the slot canyon sections, accelerating and carrying sand as it flows through the narrow passages. Gradually, the corridors deepened, and their rugged edges were smoothed, resulting in the distinctive “flowing” formations seen today.

Antelope Canyon is divided into two sections: Upper Antelope Canyon and Lower Antelope Canyon. Each section has its own features and attractions, but both are equally beautiful and worth exploring.

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A beam of light in Upper Antelope Canyon. Photo: Lucas Löffler
Upper Antelope Canyon

Upper Antelope Canyon is also known as Tsé bighánílíní, which means “the place where water runs through rocks” in Navajo. It is the most popular and accessible section of Antelope Canyon, as it has a flat ground and no stairs or ladders to climb. The entrance to Upper Antelope Canyon is a narrow crack in the ground that leads to a spacious chamber with high ceilings. The walls of Upper Antelope Canyon are smooth and curved, forming graceful arches and waves. The sunlight beams through the openings above, creating magical effects and shadows on the sandstone.

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Inside of the Upper Antelope Canyon. Photo: Luca Galuzzi

One of the most famous features of Upper Antelope Canyon is the Eye of the Dragon, a rock formation that resembles a dragon’s eye when illuminated by the sun.

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The Eye of the Dragon from a different perspective. Photo: Ryan Coisson
Lower Antelope Canyon

Lower Antelope Canyon is also known as Hazdistazí, which means “spiral rock arches” in Navajo. It is less crowded and more adventurous than Upper Antelope Canyon, as it requires some climbing and crawling through narrow passages. The entrance to Lower Antelope Canyon is a metal staircase that descends into a deep gorge. The walls of Lower Antelope Canyon are more twisted and angular than Upper Antelope Canyon, forming intricate patterns and shapes. The sunlight also filters through the cracks above, creating different hues and tones on the sandstone. Lower Antelope Canyon has several named features, such as the Corkscrew, the Four Sisters, and the Lion’s Den.

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Lower Antelope Canyon. Photo: Meckimac
How to Visit Antelope Canyon

Antelope Canyon is only accessible by guided tours, as it is located on Navajo land and requires a permit to enter (and also for other reasons – see below). There are several tour operators that offer different types of tours, such as photography tours, sightseeing tours, or combination tours with other nearby attractions like Horseshoe Bend or Lake Powell. You can choose between morning or afternoon tours, depending on your preference and availability. The best time to visit Antelope Canyon is between March and October, when the sun is high enough to create the light beams in Upper Antelope Canyon. However, you can visit Antelope Canyon any time of the year and still enjoy its beauty.

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The sunlight creates magical effects and shadows on the sandstone. Photo: Madhu Shesharam
Flash Floods at Antelope Canyon and How to Stay Safe

The other reason why Antelope Canyon can only be visited through guided tours is that it is prone to flash floods, especially during the monsoon season from July to September. Flash floods can occur even when there is no rain in the area, as water can travel from distant storms through the canyon network. Flash floods can be very dangerous, as they can fill up the canyon with fast-moving water and debris in a matter of minutes.

On August 12, 1997, a tragic flash flood in Lower Antelope Canyon claimed the lives of eleven tourists, including seven from France, one from the United Kingdom, one from Sweden, and two from the United States. Despite minimal rainfall at the site, an earlier thunderstorm upstream inundated the canyon basin, located 7 miles (11 km) away. The only survivor was tour guide Francisco “Pancho” Quintana, who had undergone swift-water training.

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Despite the fact that the old wooden ladders have been changed to bolted metal ones, visiting the canyon is still not without dangers. Photo: Alex Proimos

The canyon’s ladder system at the time consisted of amateur-built wooden ladders, which were swept away by the flood. Today, permanent bolted ladder systems and deployable cargo nets are in place, alongside a NOAA Weather Radio and an alarm horn at the fee booth for improved safety measures.

Despite enhanced warning and safety measures, the threat of injury from flash floods persists. On July 30, 2010, multiple tourists found themselves stranded on a ledge during two flash floods at Upper Antelope Canyon. While some were rescued promptly, others had to wait until the waters subsided. Reports indicated that a woman and her nine-year-old son sustained injuries as they were swept downstream, though fortunately, there were no reported fatalities.

This is what a flash flood in Antelope Canyon looks like. As you can see, it is really no joke.

Therefore, it is important to be aware of your surroundings and recognize the warning signs of flash floods, such as rising water levels or strong currents. Your tour guides will notify you of any impending danger and often cancel tours due to safety concerns. You should always follow their instructions and never enter the canyon without a guide.

More Amazing Photos of Antelope Canyon

Despite the dangers, the incredible beauty of the canyon makes taking the risk definitely worthwhile. Here are some more photos to inspire your visit to the canyon, bringing forth the hidden colors of the amazing sandstone formations.

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Photo: Sven King

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    Sources: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

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    Written by Tamás Varga
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    A sociologist and English major by degree, I've worked in the area of civil society & human rights and have been blogging in the fields of travel, nature & science for over 20 years.

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